Silver Metal
| The law requires metal to be marked by the maker and the metal quality. For sterling, the mark will be either the numbers 925 (meaning 92.5 % silver, which is sterling) or a "sterling" stamp with the words. Look near the clasp for the mark, at the end of the chain. Sometimes the mark is on a little flat looking ring at the end of the chain. Sterling silver will tarnish and on a good deal of people it tarnishes speedily due to body chemistry, and on others it never tarnishes. To keep tarnish from happening, sterling is very oftentimes plated with another metal to protect the sterling and keep the tarnish from happening. The plating will be a metal called "rhodium" which is very bright or another metal not long back used on silver that look more the color of silver. The chain may be sterling and still have the plate on the outside to prevent tarnish. Acid test may be done by a jeweler. Generally a test will cost a heap of money, not a lot, but possibly not worth depending on what you remunerated for the chain. On a huge heavy chain, the test might be worth it. There is rather a bit of 800 silver and even 750, there may be an 825 blend also. Scams are always possible so it is best to have it checked if you are in doubt. There is a British mark 625 which is for gold and now and again mistaken for 825 when an item is worn. But there are commonly other British hallmarks included. In the 1800's and thereabouts much tableware including flatware (knives, forks, spoons) was made with a silver alloy or 75% silver. This is surely less than sterling which legally means 92.5% and also less than coin silver. I suspect European manufacturer. The only real way to determine the value or origin of the item is through those who do this sort of work with antiquate silver and tableware items. If any marks including the 750 are hard to read, undertake this trick: With a candle soot the area of the mark. Then gently take a lot of scotch or clear tape and place it down on the sooty area, rubbing gently. Then remove the tape and place it on a piece of white paper. The marks will have to show up just fine. This is like lifting fingerprints! It does work reasonably well. Tips on testing silver. Firstly it is important to realize that you do not use a touchstone for Silver. You must test the article itself. Lightly scratch or scuff a little spot which is not seen (like under a silver teapot or inside a ring band etc) and apply Nitric Acid to the spot. If it turns a cloudy grey color it is Sterling Silver. If it turns black it is Coin Silver. What you don't want is for it to turn green which suggests it is plated. You must see to it you make the scratch deep sufficient to go beneath any plating though, else it won't react as it has to reach any base metal underneath. This may be a little unsightly so make sure it is in an unobtrusive area.
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How do I joint silver wire and silver cherished metal clay in jewelry making? I'm new to jewelery making and I'm attempting to create a necklace that will be made largely of 18 gauge dead soft silver wire. I'd like to add galore other bits like tiny hearts and flowers and thought the cherished metal clay would be the easiest way to sculpt those parts. I'll be using a butane torch to solder the wire parts but how do I go when it comes to joining the clay bits once they are fired? Will I need solder or flux? I don't know the answer to that for sure, but after it's cured and cleaned, Precious Metal Clay (and Art Clay Silver) are pure silver. so I'd guess you could use whatsoever you'd normally use for that. There may be a lot of deviations even though with the respective versions of PMC, etc, though? If you don't get a good answer here, you must check out one of the web sites for PMC (or Art Clay) and/or ask in their forums. http://glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm (... click on *Metal Clays* at the end of that list at the top of the page to jump down to the category on metal clays) HTH, Diane B. |
